Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

South America Holiday Travel Part XVII

July 31, 2009

December 27th
We were scheduled to leave Mendoza today on an early evening flight and decided to visit the city of Mendoza on the way to the airport. We didn’t think it made much sense to drive to Mendoza back to our hotel and then back to the airport – too much driving back and forth.

We dropped off our luggage at the hotel that our inn had arranged and went for a walk around the city. Overall we did not love Mendoza – it too seems to have suffered from the economic crisis.

There is a main pedestrian street Calle Sarlmiento which leads into the beautiful Plaza Independencia. The pedestrian street is lined with restaurants and cafes all featuring patio dining. The choices are unlimited.

The Plaza Independecia is truly beautiful. There is a fountain in the centre and lots of benches for taking a break.

Mendoza City Plaza Independecia

Mendoza City Plaza Independecia

Underneath/behind the fountain, below ground there is a museum. We did not actually go into the museum, other than to use the washrooms. The museum actually looked pretty small.

After lunch in one of the restaurants along Calle Sarlmiento we wandered around the city a little more then returned to our hotel to pick up our baggage and head to the airport.

One reminder is that in Mendoza (and many other smaller towns and cities) most business shut down for siesta so if you happen to only have one day in a town/city you need to keep this in mind for planning – ie don’t plan to go shopping from 13:00 to 17:00.

We arrived at the airport in way too much time before the flight. We wanted to have some wine and relax but we had forgotten that the airport is super tiny and offers very few services. We noticed that there was a casual restaurant and they offered beer and wine on the menu. Joe went to order some wine and was told that they don’t serve wine but he could get some from the wine store down the hall. Of course the wine store did not have any chilled wine. So we went without!

Checking In
In order to leave Argentina you have to pay a departure tax. You can do this either before you check in or after you check in. There is a booth across the hall from the airline check in where you can pay for your departure tax. You need this before going through customs/security. We paid for our departure tax before going to the airline desk.

We had read that European citizens do not have to pay an entry fee upon arrival in Chile but Canadians do. The fee is supposed to be something like a $120 CAD each so we had decided that we would use our European passports to save on this fee.

When we tried to check into the airline we used our Euro passports and of course they were not the passports we had used to arrive in Argentina so we had to use our Canadian passports to depart.

If you decide to do something similar, my advice is that you need to use the same passport for entering and leaving a country.

We used our Euro passports upon arrival in Chile and that worked out perfectly fine (more about that later).

Customs/Security and Boarding
It is a bit confusing going to the gate as the information as to which flights are boarding is not completely clear. My suggestion is that if you see your destination posted line up in the security/customs line.

You need to have all your documents handy at this point. The process is pretty simple from there and there is a waiting area with a duty free shop there for any last minute purchases.

Boarding is all at once versus by row number so everyone just lines up and boards so it is a little less organised.

We had amazing seats and I’m not sure how we got them but we were sitting in business class at the front (even though I had paid for economy).

Here’s where I became completely confused. I had been confused for several days now regarding time change and this is usually not a problem for me. I set my watch on board to the new time and generally no problem. I first was confused in Mendoza because there was a time change from Buenos Aires (which I thought I knew and thought I had changed my watch accordingly). Eventually I corrected that in Mendoza and thought all the time change issues were behind me. However the time on the flight indicated that the flight from Mendoza to Santiago was to be one hour and fifty minutes.

Being seated in Business Class I was waiting for the flight attendants to offer beverages and a snack.

We took off and were waiting for the seat sign to go off so Joe could move to another seat. Since Joe and I were sitting beside each other and there were several seats open, he wanted to move to a window seat to get a better view of the Andes as we flew over.

View of the Andes from Plane between Mendoza and Santiago

View of the Andes from Plane between Mendoza and Santiago

We kept waiting for the seat sign to go off but it never did, so he just got up and moved a row quickly then buckled back in.

View of the Andes in the Clouds

View of the Andes in the Clouds

I was excited by the comfy seats and great view and was still wondering when the flight attendants would be bring me a coupe!

About 20 minutes into the flight I could feel that we were starting to descend, now I was feeling really confused, how could we be there already? The flight was about 45 minutes to an hour in total, the seat signs never went off and the flight attendants never got out of their seats. Strange.

Arriving in Santiago
We arrived in Santiago, proceeded to the customs area, presented our Euro passports and proceeded through to baggage. We did not have to pay a fee to enter but we admit that we did not see anyone else paying a fee either so we are still not sure if we would have had to pay a fee if we presented Canadian passports.

After claiming our baggage and just before exiting we arranged for a taxi to the hotel. The cost of the taxi was pretty inexpensive and I would highly recommend taking this option. The car was a new and comfortable model and the drive to the hotel was smooth.

Our first impression of Santiago was that it is a modern, well developed city. Of course as often is the case near most city airports there were some impoverished areas. The highways were very modern and smooth, very much like North American or European highways.

Our hotel was a modern, high rise located in the business district. Just next door to the hotel was a very large, modern North American style shopping mall.

Sunset view from Mariott Santiago

Sunset view from Mariott Santiago

View of Santiago from Santiago Marriott

View of Santiago from Santiago Marriott

The mall is huge and has a large campus of restaurant, many of them American brands.

We checked into the hotel and decided to go to the mall for a light dinner before turning in early. We selected a local casual restaurant for dinner called Tip y Tap. I liked the name and the location was cool. It is located on the second floor and has an open air balcony. Although it was a little cool temperature wise it was nice looking out. The food was mediocre but the wine was good. We enjoyed a nice demi bottle of Chilean red wine.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part VIII
Part IX
Part X
Part XI
Part XII
Part XIII
Part XIV
Part XV
Part XVI

South America Holiday Travel Part XVI

July 31, 2009

December 26th
We had arranged in advance for a full day Wine Tour for Dec 26th. The tour company we used was called Trout and Wine. They run wine and fly fishing tours. The tour itself cost $140/person which personally I find quite expensive however we were told we would be going to some of the top wineries and having lunch as Ruca Malen a winery which is supposedly very difficult to get reservations.

The tour company picked us up at the hotel at 9:30 am in an air conditioned van and provided us with a complimentary bottle of wine and some bottled water. There was already another couple in the van –the woman was from Ireland and the man from England. Right away we enjoyed their company. They were both lawyers and were quite interesting.

Along the way, the tour guide, Muriel, who was extremely knowledgeable explained the area and the history of wine making in the three main areas. The area which we were visiting is called Lujan de Cuyo. The other two areas are Valle de Uco and Maipu.

We arrived at our first Bodega (Bodega means winery) – Renacer. Two additional people met up with us here, two young women from LA.

Renacer Bodega in Mendoza

Renacer Bodega in Mendoza

Our tour began in the vineyards where we learned a little about the eco watering practices of the vineyard as well as how to identify the differences in grape varieties by the leaf shape (though I think I’ve already forgotten the latter).

From the vineyard we visited the cellar and then on to the most important part, the tasting room. The room was set up specifically for our group and the representative sat with us. There was a plate of cheese, nuts and crackers on the table for nibbling.

We started with wine from the barrel of single grape varieties to taste the difference in the varietals. Then we were invited to try to create our own special blend of wine using the three main varietals. This was a unique and interesting experience which I have not had at any other winery. Lastly we tried several of the wines. One of the wines that we tried was an Enamore which was made using the same process as Amarone (an Italian wine made by drying the grapes slightly before making the wine, giving it a fuller, bolder flavour). Amarone is one of Joe’s and my favourite wines, we just love it. We were therefore excited to try another wine made using this process. While we did like the wine, it was really nothing like Amarone. Not nearly as full or bold. I presume the main reason for this is that it was not made with the same grape variety (and of course different growing conditions).

Our experience at this Bodega was wonderful and we would recommend a visit. Of course at 10 in the morning after several tastings we were feeling really good already!

The next winery was Sottano. The experience here was less personal as there was also another wine tour going on at the same time. None the less the wines were also very good and the environment was interesting. Sottano has a modern design.

Next stop was Ruca Malen for lunch paired with wines. Lunch was enjoyable however it was not so exceptional that I would fight for a table as we had heard it was worth doing so.

Joe and I enjoying the wine at Bodega Rucla

Joe and I enjoying the wine at Bodega Rucla

Last stop was Tapiz. By this point we were really done with visiting the vineyards and cellars (we’ve done that more than a few times, and no need to do it four times in one day). Here we tasted unfinished wines from the tanks. Please someone tell me why? I have no need to taste wine that looks like lemonade because it is so cloudy!

This winery also offers a horse and carriage ride through the vineyard if you are into that kind of thing.

Carriage Ride Through Bodega Tapis Vinyards

Carriage Ride Through Bodega Tapis Vinyards

Mexican Dinner
We walked into the village for a light Mexican dinner. Dinner was mediocre.

Transportation Tips
One of our other disappointments of staying at an inn that wasn’t in a well serviced area is that we felt a bit trapped. This was likely as a result of two factors, first we were staying there over the holidays and many things were closed and secondly we did not have our own transportation and therefore we were not able to move around independently.

If you decide to go to Mendoza and stay outside of the city (Mendoza City), I’d suggest that you rent a car, even if your inn tells you it won’t be necessary (as ours did). The challenge here is that if you are doing wine tours you don’t want to be drinking and driving. You may wish therefore to still take a wine tour but to have the car for other transportation, going to dinner etc.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part VIII
Part IX
Part X
Part XI
Part XII
Part XIII
Part XIV
Part XV
Part XVII

South America Holiday Travel Part XV

July 31, 2009

December 25th
On Christmas day most businesses were closed. We decided to use the inn’s bicycles and go for a ride. It took us a while to get the bikes at least in riding condition, although Joe’s bike was barely in riding condition, mine was fine. We went for a nice ride and discovered another small area of the village we hadn’t seen walking – although overall nothing exciting.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part VIII
Part IX
Part X
Part XI
Part XII
Part XIII
Part XIV
Part XVI
Part XVII

South America Holiday Travel Part XIV

July 31, 2009

December 24th
Christmas Eve Dinner
As it is in many European countries, Christmas Eve, is the important family celebration day. Unlike any other European country I’ve ever been to during Christmas, the celebration in Argentina seems to be more like a New Year’s Eve Party.

As we walked through Chacras de Cora we saw a number of stores selling fireworks. We thought it was a little unusual for the time of year but didn’t think too much more about it – until Christmas Eve.

The large family that was staying in our inn had not only taken over the public areas of the inn, there were also now in the kitchen preparing their Christmas Eve dinner and had also rearranged the furniture to make a large dining area for them. They partied, loud music, dancing and yes fireworks until the wee hours of the morning. Not like any other Christian celebration I’ve ever experienced.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part VIII
Part IX
Part X
Part XI
Part XII
Part XIII
Part XV
Part XVI
Part XVII

South America Holiday Travel Part XIII

July 31, 2009

December 23rd
We took a taxi to the airport from our hotel and this was in our opinion a rip off. We prepaid for the taxi which didn’t make sense to us but the taxi stand rep said it would be better for us. I can tell you we would have paid significantly less had we flagged a taxi from the street just outside the hotel. As long as you take a radio taxi you are fine. Since taxis are not too expensive even overpaying is not a huge deal, more of an annoyance that the hotel would take advantage of you.

The domestic airport – Jorge Newberry is a new airport and pretty comfortable. The only challenge we encountered is that our flight gate was not listed until right before boarding. We actually entered the security area without knowing where we were going to board. Normally this wouldn’t be a problem except there were two sections of the airport for entering the gates so in theory you need to know the gate. We figured it out by process of elimination from which general area we would be departing.

We were flying by Aerolineas Argentinas which we had discovered several days earlier had gone into receivership. We had checked at our hotel to see if we would need to book another flight and they were completely unconcerned with the financial situation as the airline is the sole airline of Argentina and had been taken over by the government. While they did indicate that service would not be very good, the airline would still be running. The gate was actually not posted until after the time at which we were to be boarding but in the end we did board and made it to our destination in Mendoza.

Arriving in Mendoza
The airport in Mendoza is pretty tiny. There are very few services so don’t plan to spend any time there. We had arranged in advance for a car to our inn however you can also get a taxi outside the airport.

Our drive from the airport to the inn which is located in Chacras de Coria was not a pretty drive. We felt like we were driving into the middle of no where. We were a little surprised at the area as we arrived closer to the town Chacras de Coria as we had read that it was a charming village.

Lares de Charcras
We arrived at our inn which was fine but again we felt like it was in the middle of no where and it was gated so we had the sense that the area was not too safe.

We checked in and our room was basic but comfortable. The inn itself was charming but overall also pretty basic. The staff though were wonderful they made every to make the stay comfortable and enjoyable. I was truly surprised at how the staff would go out of their way to solve problems/questions and find solutions. When we left the inn the last day, one staff member called her brother at a hotel he works at in Mendoza and arranged for us to leave our luggage there while we walked around the city – wow!

Exploring Chacras de Coria
After getting settled in our room we decided to take a walk in the village to see what it was like. Even though the inn is gated (as are most of the properties in the area, we did not feel unsafe walking to and in the town

The village itself is pretty small and visibly under transition. In some cases it is in very poor repair, sidewalks and builds while other buildings have been renovated and are modern. It looks like a village which is starting to rebuild itself. There is a plaza in the centre of town which is pretty and numerous restaurants.

We walked through the whole village with a stop for ice cream – dolce de leche of course!

Given that it was small there were only a few areas of the inn where one could spend time, the pool, terrace, media room and the lounge chairs. Our disappointment was that there was a large family staying at the inn and basically they overtook the whole place. The would leave their towels on the lounge chairs, glasses and other personal things on the terrace and also occupy the pool and media room. It felt uncomfortable for us.

My suggestion is that if you are going to be staying at a small inn, check in advance that there isn’t a large group taking over the majority of the rooms.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part VIII
Part IX
Part X
Part XI
Part XII
Part XIV
Part XV
Part XVI
Part XVII

South America Holiday Travel Part XII

July 31, 2009

December 22nd
Today was a bit of a lazy day for us. We wandered around areas that we had not visited before and generally took an easy day.

For dinner we made a reservation at Juana M. A restaurant which we had heard was mainly visited by locals – although we were surprised since we had read about it in Frommer’s!

The pictures don’t really do it justice, trust me if you go to BA visit this restaurant.

Inside Juana in BA

Inside Juana in BA

We loved the experience of this little restaurant. We liked the feel of the restaurant, it was young and fun and we found it to be really good value. We had a bottle of red wine, we both ordered fillet, shared an order of sweet potato fries and the salad bar was included. The salad bar was nothing to write home about but the meat was good and a huge quantity, we actually could have shared a single order since we were given two fillets each. I can’t remember how much it cost but I do remember it was pretty inexpensive but don’t expect it to be as cheap as Frommer’s indicates it certainly cost more than $5 USD per main course.

Entrance of Juana Restaurant in BA

Entrance of Juana Restaurant in BA

Juana M, Carlos Pellegrini 1535

Side Trips
We had planned to go to Colonia, Uruguay, Montevideo and even Punte del Este but did not get around to doing it. The cost was more than we planned and the time to get there and back didn’t seem to be worth it. If we were to go again we would have included some time in Uruguay in Punta del Este, Colonia and Montevideo. Our plan to do the three as side trips was not realistic. We would have planned to stay in Uruguay for several days.

Another side trip that we had originally planned to do is a day trip to Tigre just outside of BA. We did hear it was beautiful so it sounds like a worthwhile recommendation.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part VIII
Part IX
Part X
Part XI
Part XIII
Part XIV
Part XV
Part XVI
Part XVII

South America Holiday Travel Part XI

July 30, 2009

The one day I decided to break with my own rules and wore shorts in the city (and a tank top) was the day that it decided to drop in temperature significantly and rain! It had been about 35 degrees Celsius every day and no rain at all and suddenly the temperature dropped significantly and rained buckets!

We had read that San Telmo is the best market in all of Buenos Aires and even if you are not a market person you will love it. Well I did not love it! If you love antiques you will love this market, if not, in my opinion there is nothing to see. Yes there are some Tango dancers in the street but it feels really, really touristy and not authentic at all.

In between the pouring rain we stopped at a charming little café and had an empanada which was nice and a good experience. The café was a little off the beaten path in a courtyard. The café itself was like a tea room with wood floors, a piano in the room and a theatre down the hall.

Cafe in San Telmo Market

Cafe in San Telmo Market

San Telmo Cafe hall way

San Telmo Cafe hall way

Empanadas

Empanadas

If the weather had been better we would have purchased a stuffed bread bun from one of the many vendors on the street. These sandwiches looked fabulous and smelled as good. The vendors had large baskets of the sandwiches which were kept warm in towels. The sandwiches were available in a variety of flavours like corn or meat or ham and cheese.

Buenos Aires Street Empanadas

Buenos Aires Street Empanadas


After a miserable day we decided to have a light dinner near the hotel at the Il Grand Caffe. We shared a pizza and sandwich. The Grand Caffe is on Florida Street and has a nice covered terrace outside. If you choose to eat on the terrace the price is slightly higher than inside.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part VIII
Part IX
Part X
Part XII
Part XIII
Part XIV
Part XV
Part XVI
Part XVII

Rules for riding the Metro/Subway

July 29, 2009

Here are a few observations and rules for using public transportation. They should go without saying but clearly they do not.

1. Just because you made it in the metro/bus doesn’t mean that the person behind you is in yet so please….move in and let the people in behind you.

2. Do not pee in the or anywhere near the metro stations – those dark, damp stations absorb that smell and it just gets worse over time.

3. When on the metro/bus do not collect near the entrance/exit doors, move in and let people in and out at each stop.

4. Please stand up and let seniors take a seat!

5. The folding chairs at the entrance fold for a reason, when the metro is full, stand up, put the book down and let people breath – we don’t need to be that close to you and I’m sure you don’t need a but in your face!

6. When walking through the metro ways, stop reading, slow people move to the side and let others pass. People in a hurry, don’t trample others.

7. No eating! No one wants to smell your tuna sandwich.

Perfect Day Trip – Spa Scandinave

July 6, 2009

Take a weekday break and head up from Toronto to the Spa Scandinave at Blue (Blue Mountain).

We have been regular visitors of Spa Scandinave at Mont-Tremblant for years and have converted a number of friends into believers!

Spa Scandinave is not a traditional spa (there are no pedicures, seaweed wraps etc). The spa focuses on the Scandinavian process of hot, cold, rest. What that means is that you spend about 15 minutes in something hot – a hot tub, steam room or sauna. This is followed by a quick (if you can take it) plunge into a cold pool or under cold waterfall. Then after your heart is pounding out of your chest your rest for 15 minutes then start the process all over again.

Spa Scandinave

Spa Scandinave

For about $100 you can spend three hours in the baths and also get a massage. If you have health insurance (for registered massage therapy) a good portion of this is covered so it’s a pretty good value for a relaxing day.

Oh and there are no children. Most people who go are either couples or a couple girlfriends together. If you are feeling a little peckish after 3 hours of relaxation you can grab a bite to eat in their cafe.

So if you need a mid week break, and are either in Montreal or the GTA, I’d recommend a visit to Spa Scandinave at Mont-Tremblant or Blue. I would not recommend going on the weekend as much as it tends to be busier and a little less relaxing.

Sante

Gaudi The Genius

June 17, 2009

I have been to Barcelona probably around half a dozen times or so. This time however was the first time that I had the pleasure to visit the Casa Mila, Park Guell and Sagrada Familia. I had visited previously the Casa Batllo but never any of the other examples of Gaudi architecture. Most likely because each of the other visits were for business and one occasion where I spent the weekend with a girlfriend and we were completely caught up in shopping mode and didn’t see a single site!

This time in Barcelona, I was with my husband and since he appreciates architecture we spent more time on viewing Guadi work and art galleries than shopping. We only had a weekend so we visited as much as possible without wearing completely out our feet!

Casa Batllo

Casa Batllo

On our first full day we visited the Casa Batllo and I must say while I had found Gaudi architecture interesting before, I had no understanding of it and thought it was all aesthetic or some really good (or bad, depending on your POV) drugs.

In our visit to the Casa Batllo we discovered that even the university from which he graduated was unsure if he was a genius or a lunatic. Actually as you learn the inspiration behind his ideas you are fascinated by his genius.

Casa Batllo Model

Casa Batllo Model

He was fascinated by nature and was therefore inspired by nature in his designs. When you look at his work you can easily see structures which resemble backbone vertebrae, spiral stair cases inspired by shells, tiles inspired by honey cones and columns by bones and trees. When you understand these ideas, you cannot help but think of him as a genius and wonder why more of his ideas were not more widely adapted.

Casa Batllo Spine Inspired

Casa Batllo Spine Inspired

Casa Batllo Tile

Casa Batllo Tile

If in Barcelona, I would highly recommend a visit to Casa Batllo for education of the ideas and then Casa Mila for the aesthetic appreciation of Gaudi architecture.

Casa Batllo Terrace Chimney

Casa Batllo Terrace Chimney


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