Archive for the ‘Culture’ Category

South America Holiday Travel Part XIII

July 31, 2009

December 23rd
We took a taxi to the airport from our hotel and this was in our opinion a rip off. We prepaid for the taxi which didn’t make sense to us but the taxi stand rep said it would be better for us. I can tell you we would have paid significantly less had we flagged a taxi from the street just outside the hotel. As long as you take a radio taxi you are fine. Since taxis are not too expensive even overpaying is not a huge deal, more of an annoyance that the hotel would take advantage of you.

The domestic airport – Jorge Newberry is a new airport and pretty comfortable. The only challenge we encountered is that our flight gate was not listed until right before boarding. We actually entered the security area without knowing where we were going to board. Normally this wouldn’t be a problem except there were two sections of the airport for entering the gates so in theory you need to know the gate. We figured it out by process of elimination from which general area we would be departing.

We were flying by Aerolineas Argentinas which we had discovered several days earlier had gone into receivership. We had checked at our hotel to see if we would need to book another flight and they were completely unconcerned with the financial situation as the airline is the sole airline of Argentina and had been taken over by the government. While they did indicate that service would not be very good, the airline would still be running. The gate was actually not posted until after the time at which we were to be boarding but in the end we did board and made it to our destination in Mendoza.

Arriving in Mendoza
The airport in Mendoza is pretty tiny. There are very few services so don’t plan to spend any time there. We had arranged in advance for a car to our inn however you can also get a taxi outside the airport.

Our drive from the airport to the inn which is located in Chacras de Coria was not a pretty drive. We felt like we were driving into the middle of no where. We were a little surprised at the area as we arrived closer to the town Chacras de Coria as we had read that it was a charming village.

Lares de Charcras
We arrived at our inn which was fine but again we felt like it was in the middle of no where and it was gated so we had the sense that the area was not too safe.

We checked in and our room was basic but comfortable. The inn itself was charming but overall also pretty basic. The staff though were wonderful they made every to make the stay comfortable and enjoyable. I was truly surprised at how the staff would go out of their way to solve problems/questions and find solutions. When we left the inn the last day, one staff member called her brother at a hotel he works at in Mendoza and arranged for us to leave our luggage there while we walked around the city – wow!

Exploring Chacras de Coria
After getting settled in our room we decided to take a walk in the village to see what it was like. Even though the inn is gated (as are most of the properties in the area, we did not feel unsafe walking to and in the town

The village itself is pretty small and visibly under transition. In some cases it is in very poor repair, sidewalks and builds while other buildings have been renovated and are modern. It looks like a village which is starting to rebuild itself. There is a plaza in the centre of town which is pretty and numerous restaurants.

We walked through the whole village with a stop for ice cream – dolce de leche of course!

Given that it was small there were only a few areas of the inn where one could spend time, the pool, terrace, media room and the lounge chairs. Our disappointment was that there was a large family staying at the inn and basically they overtook the whole place. The would leave their towels on the lounge chairs, glasses and other personal things on the terrace and also occupy the pool and media room. It felt uncomfortable for us.

My suggestion is that if you are going to be staying at a small inn, check in advance that there isn’t a large group taking over the majority of the rooms.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part VIII
Part IX
Part X
Part XI
Part XII
Part XIV
Part XV
Part XVI
Part XVII

South America Holiday Travel Part XI

July 30, 2009

The one day I decided to break with my own rules and wore shorts in the city (and a tank top) was the day that it decided to drop in temperature significantly and rain! It had been about 35 degrees Celsius every day and no rain at all and suddenly the temperature dropped significantly and rained buckets!

We had read that San Telmo is the best market in all of Buenos Aires and even if you are not a market person you will love it. Well I did not love it! If you love antiques you will love this market, if not, in my opinion there is nothing to see. Yes there are some Tango dancers in the street but it feels really, really touristy and not authentic at all.

In between the pouring rain we stopped at a charming little café and had an empanada which was nice and a good experience. The café was a little off the beaten path in a courtyard. The café itself was like a tea room with wood floors, a piano in the room and a theatre down the hall.

Cafe in San Telmo Market

Cafe in San Telmo Market

San Telmo Cafe hall way

San Telmo Cafe hall way

Empanadas

Empanadas

If the weather had been better we would have purchased a stuffed bread bun from one of the many vendors on the street. These sandwiches looked fabulous and smelled as good. The vendors had large baskets of the sandwiches which were kept warm in towels. The sandwiches were available in a variety of flavours like corn or meat or ham and cheese.

Buenos Aires Street Empanadas

Buenos Aires Street Empanadas


After a miserable day we decided to have a light dinner near the hotel at the Il Grand Caffe. We shared a pizza and sandwich. The Grand Caffe is on Florida Street and has a nice covered terrace outside. If you choose to eat on the terrace the price is slightly higher than inside.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part VIII
Part IX
Part X
Part XII
Part XIII
Part XIV
Part XV
Part XVI
Part XVII

Rules for riding the Metro/Subway

July 29, 2009

Here are a few observations and rules for using public transportation. They should go without saying but clearly they do not.

1. Just because you made it in the metro/bus doesn’t mean that the person behind you is in yet so please….move in and let the people in behind you.

2. Do not pee in the or anywhere near the metro stations – those dark, damp stations absorb that smell and it just gets worse over time.

3. When on the metro/bus do not collect near the entrance/exit doors, move in and let people in and out at each stop.

4. Please stand up and let seniors take a seat!

5. The folding chairs at the entrance fold for a reason, when the metro is full, stand up, put the book down and let people breath – we don’t need to be that close to you and I’m sure you don’t need a but in your face!

6. When walking through the metro ways, stop reading, slow people move to the side and let others pass. People in a hurry, don’t trample others.

7. No eating! No one wants to smell your tuna sandwich.

Gaudi The Genius

June 17, 2009

I have been to Barcelona probably around half a dozen times or so. This time however was the first time that I had the pleasure to visit the Casa Mila, Park Guell and Sagrada Familia. I had visited previously the Casa Batllo but never any of the other examples of Gaudi architecture. Most likely because each of the other visits were for business and one occasion where I spent the weekend with a girlfriend and we were completely caught up in shopping mode and didn’t see a single site!

This time in Barcelona, I was with my husband and since he appreciates architecture we spent more time on viewing Guadi work and art galleries than shopping. We only had a weekend so we visited as much as possible without wearing completely out our feet!

Casa Batllo

Casa Batllo

On our first full day we visited the Casa Batllo and I must say while I had found Gaudi architecture interesting before, I had no understanding of it and thought it was all aesthetic or some really good (or bad, depending on your POV) drugs.

In our visit to the Casa Batllo we discovered that even the university from which he graduated was unsure if he was a genius or a lunatic. Actually as you learn the inspiration behind his ideas you are fascinated by his genius.

Casa Batllo Model

Casa Batllo Model

He was fascinated by nature and was therefore inspired by nature in his designs. When you look at his work you can easily see structures which resemble backbone vertebrae, spiral stair cases inspired by shells, tiles inspired by honey cones and columns by bones and trees. When you understand these ideas, you cannot help but think of him as a genius and wonder why more of his ideas were not more widely adapted.

Casa Batllo Spine Inspired

Casa Batllo Spine Inspired

Casa Batllo Tile

Casa Batllo Tile

If in Barcelona, I would highly recommend a visit to Casa Batllo for education of the ideas and then Casa Mila for the aesthetic appreciation of Gaudi architecture.

Casa Batllo Terrace Chimney

Casa Batllo Terrace Chimney

Obama and Calder at the Pompidou

June 8, 2009

The Pompidou as you know if you follow this blog is one of my favourite museums in Paris.

The first Sunday of every month, the Pompidou along with all the other national museums in Paris are free. Our plan was to wake up early and get into the Pompidou before the crowds.

Just as we were arriving at the street where the Pompidou is located we noticed that the street had been shut down by the national police. We assumed that it was just for a motorcade of some sort and went around the blocked off street.

Pompidou Photographers

Pompidou Photographers

As we arrived at the front of the museum we noticed that no one was being allowed down the hill to the entrance, again blocked off by the national police. I approached one of them and asked what was going on. He replied that it was closed due to a visit from the “American President” (in French of course). I asked when it would be open and he replied in the afternoon.

Front of the Pompidou

Front of the Pompidou

Well we had hoped to get in during the morning and I had not planned anything else until lunch time. We decided to wait for a while and have a coffee on one of the cafes out front in Beaubourg. Finally the national police allowed everyone to go to the front of the museum. The crowds rushed to the front and of course there was a big line up. We decided to skip it and come back later in the evening where there would likely be less people.

We had lunch at my favourite falafel restaurant in the Marais, Las Fallafel.

Las Fallafel

Las Fallafel

After lunch we walked to the Louvre and enjoyed a couple hours there instead.

In the evening we walked back to the Pompidou and were happy to see the crowds had left. We did make the mistake however of not purchasing a ticket for the special exhibitions so we had to go back down to the reception and purchase our tickets. At 12 euros each and headsets at 5 euros each this was no longer a free evening.

We started with the Kandinsky exhibition and while I did like it, I admit I don’t get it! We then moved on to the Calder exhibition and completely enjoyed it.

Alexander Calder is an American sculptor who worked with wire as his medium. Born in 1898 he first trained as an engineer and then as an artist. His career as an artist really took off when he arrived in Paris in 1926. The exhibition at the Pompidou focuses on his work during his time in Paris.

Calder Fish Bowl

Calder Fish Bowl

Facinating work, really worth a visit. It is truly amazing how realistic Calder can make objects look with a few simple telephone wires.

Dada in the Laurentians

May 22, 2009

The third annual Dada exhibition is currently running in the Maison des Arts in the little town of Saint Faustin in the Laurentians. The exhibition is on May 3rd to May 30th.

Dada Poster

Dada Poster

It is the first time that I have had the opportunity to visit the exhibition. I had wanted to go last year however the timing did not coincide with our visit to Mont Tremblant.

While the exhibition is relatively small. You can visit the whole exhibition in about an hour. It is very well done. The interpretation of Dadaism is amazing and all done by local artists.

Dada or Dadaism can be explained as a cultural movement that began in Zürich, Switzerland, during World War I and peaked from 1916 to 1922. The movement is primarily express through art forms including visual arts and poetry. The works of art focus on political and social messages. The art forms reject traditional art standards and use a mix of unusual materials to communicate their thought provoking messages.

One work of art challenges the idea of oil for profit and another the impact of our consumerism on the environment.

One suggestion I would have is if you do not speak/read French well, take a little mini translator. It is not necessary to appreciate the art but each work is titled and understanding the art’s name for the work can help you to better understand the idea they are trying to communicate.

South America Holiday Travel Part X

May 7, 2009

December 20th
Today was all about the markets. First we wanted to visit the area in Palermo Hollywood and see the market there. We took the metro and walked from the nearest one taking a look at the interesting boutiques and shops along the way. In general this was a nice area for boutique shopping. We arrived at the Plaza Serrano and took a quick walk around the fair. This is a very small market and can be seen in a short period of time.

We stopped for lunch at one of the many restaurants and cafes in the area before catching a taxi to the Malba museum. The Malba is a beautiful building with modern Argentinean art, definitely worth a visit. There is also a nice café inside which is a perfect place to take a break.

Malba Foyer

Malba Foyer

After visiting the museum we walked to the Plaza Francia stopping to see the giant robotic flower “Floralis Generica” monument along the way. The flower is stunningly beautiful and opens and closes daily.

By the time we reached the Plaza Francia we were already hot and tired but this is by far the best market in the city (in my opinion anyway). The booths in the main circle are all manned (according to their rules anyway) artisans who handcraft their goods. The quality and selection of the crafts here are fantastic. I would not suggest a visit to Buenos Aires without visiting this market. I would also suggest that you take at least a couple of hours to visit. Since the market backs up on the design mall you may even consider taking a break in one of the many restaurants in the design mall while visiting the market.

We were completely exhausted after walking around the market and decided to go back to the hotel to freshen up and relax for awhile.

Since we had spent a long day seeing the sights we decided to have dinner at the nearby Puerto Madero even though we had felt it was a bit touristy when we had walked there the previous night. It was nearby and we had read that there was a good value Parrilla there called La Bistecca. We decided that we would take a taxi to save our legs.

If you love buffets here in North America, you’ll love La Bistecca. For us this is really not our thing. I’d rather have a small amount of high quality food than a huge amount of average food. Overall it was a fine experience we have fun being together and the food was fine just not great. Again we found that the vegetables are not particularly well prepared. There is a lot of meat choice and also you can have pizza and pasta made to order as part of the all inclusive buffet. Our bill including wine was 171 pesos.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part VIII
Part IX
Part XI
Part XII
Part XIII
Part XIV
Part XV
Part XVI
Part XVII

South America Holiday Travel Itinerary & Tips Part IX

April 29, 2009

December 19th
Since when we went to Recoleta we hadn’t visited the cemetery we decided to do it today. Normally going to a cemetery is not my idea of how to spend time, however I had seen some pictures of the cemetery in advance and was really intrigued by the monuments and the whole areas being almost like a walled neighbourhood – strange but you have to see it to understand what I mean.

Racoleta Cemetery

Racoleta Cemetery

You can buy a map outside the entrance to keep as a souvenir or just follow the crowds of people to find Evita’s family grave. It is certainly not the most impressive of the graves but a mandatory stop.

Evita's Grave

Evita's Grave

Before going to the cemetery we visited the design mall which is very near the cemetery. The mall includes indoor and outdoor areas and has wonderful restaurants with terrace seating. There are also many shops and furniture stores inside. You may consider having lunch or a break here either before or after visiting the cemetery.

Design Center

Design Center

In the evening – Puerto Madero
We had yet to visit the Puerto Madero area so we decided to take a walk there from our hotel to check it out and maybe have some dinner. We walked from our hotel all the way along the port to the very end. The area is filled with restaurants (basically there are only restaurants and hotels there). It you like eating at touristy areas this is the perfect area for you. We found the restaurant to be generally overpriced and had a feeling of urban gentrification. None-the-less we did enjoy the walk along the port and watching the young couples in love cuddling up on the many benches overlooking the water. I am not exaggerating when I say every single bench was built for two and occupied by such.

Along out walk we came across the Catholic University and were completely perplexed by the egg carnage that was all over the sidewalk. We later learned that this is a tradition in which those graduating from University are targets for eggs and flower. There must have been two solid blocks of egg and flower all over the sidewalk.

If you decide to take the walk along the port, may I suggest that you do not start at one end and walk to the other, it is a very long walk and the university takes up big portion of it in the middle and there is really nothing to see at that part.

You may visit the well known restaurant Cabana Las Lilas which is near the beginning of the port. The other end of the port has less expensive restaurants and if going there you may wish to take a taxi (save your legs).

We were tired after all of our walking and decided to call it a night rather than have dinner.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part VIII
Part X
Part XI
Part XII
Part XIII
Part XIV
Part XV
Part XVI
Part XVII

South America Holiday Travel Itinerary and Tips Part VIII

March 14, 2009

December 18th
We went for a walk down Florida Street as our first day we didn’t get all the way to Plaza de Mayo and I wanted to visit the craft market at the old city hall and of course see Evita’s balcony.

Florida Street at Christmas

Florida Street at Christmas

Casa Rosa

Casa Rosa

As we had noticed our first night on Florida Street many independent artisans and vendors selling everything from interesting handicrafts and jewelry to cheap junk randomly set up on Florida. This mainly occurs in the late afternoon, early evening. The area closest to Plaza de Mayo often has artisans lining the street during the day as well. They simply take a blanket, place it on the ground and put their handicrafts on it to sell to pedestrians.

Cabildo Patio Fera
Our first stop was to visit the craft market – Cabildo Patio Fera in the garden patio behind the Cabildo (old city hall). The quality of crafts here was interesting although the market was very small. The market runs on Thursday and Friday from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm.

Historical and Political Buildings
After visiting the market, we walked around the main buildings with a stop in the Cathedral which was pretty but not spectacular, you’ll find more interesting churches in Europe. Next stop in the square was a look at the Casa Rosada to see window from Evita’s famous address to her adoring public. Outside the Casa Rosada you can see historical political images of the country’s presidents with other nations’ leaders. We were a bit disappointed that we couldn’t go in the Casa to see the inside (I think we just couldn’t find the right entrance – but the guards told us there was no entry)

One thing we read which we found interesting is that the pink colour of the Casa was selected as a compromise between the two political parties. One political party’s colour is red and one white – the combination of which creates pink.

Taking A Break For Lunch
We had lunch at a café right in the main square called the Gran Victoria. It was bustling with local business people. The Plaza de Mayo is the political centre of the city but also where most of the main banking offices are located. The food was not exceptional but the experience was. We shared a sandwich and watched the locals. I love the way some of the coffee is served. They serve it with little containers of whipped cream, sugar and dolce de leche. Our waiter presented the amount of our bill by writing it on a cocktail napkin. We never actually received a bill.

Cafe Victoria Coffee

Cafe Victoria Coffee

Diagonal Norte to Lavalle
After a lunch break we walked to the monument Diagonal Norte and down Lavalle, another pedestrian street which we hadn’t visited our first time on Florida.

Taking The Metro/Subte
We decided to give our legs a break and take the metro to dinner. When visiting a city we usually try to whenever possible take public transit rather than rely on taxis. In the case of BA, taxis are not very expensive but we still like taking public transit.

The metro in BA is called the Subte. You will see the circular signs at the metro stations with the word “Subte” on them.

We purchased four tickets (two to get us to the street for dinner and two to get us back. The cost of one ticket $.90 pesos. A ticket or trip is called “viaje” and is a paper card more or less the size f a credit card. You can put multiple trips on a single ticket but we had read that the megnatic strip on the ticket can be affected by the humidity and not work. We opted to primarily purchase one trip at a time. Upon entering the station there is a ticket agent from whom you can buy tickets. Once you have the ticket you put it in the slot at the turnstile and it returns it to you out the top. If you bought multi trips you will want to keep the ticket, otherwise there is no need to do so. Unlike some metros you do not need to keep it as proof of purchase (at least this is what we were told).

An interesting note on the paper Subte cards, there is a man who has an artisan booth at the Feria Frances who makes things out of them such as desk organisers/pen holders and hot plate mats. It’s pretty cool and I like the idea that he uses old materials and recycles them.

http://www.subte.com.ar

Dinner and Market Shopping
Dinner at a restaurant on Baez. This street is packed with restaurants and lots of young people. At the end of Baez there was an artisan market set up. Not sure if this market happens regularly or not as we had not read about it in advance. There were about 20 vendors selling fashion items (mostly for women) and jewelry and even a band playing. It was a pretty cool market.

This street is a fantastic place to go for dinner. Pretty much every building on the street is a restaurant and most with patios out front. There are lots of great choices and the streets are bustling with young hip people. This was my favourite area for the evening. The restaurants are reasonably priced but many do not take credit cards so make sure you have enough cash for dinner and drinks.

We went to a casual pizza and pasta restaurant sharing a bottle of Rose wine and a pizza. Since we paid cash and I didn’t write it down, I can remember exactly but I believe total including tip it was under $20 CAD.

Argentinean Pizza
A word about pizza in BA and Mendoza, the style of pizza is not similar to North American pizza (nor Italian). The crust is a different texture, almost spongy, it’s not a thin crust but it’s not thick either and whatever variety you order is sure to have a ton of cheese on it. The cheese isn’t shredded cheese like NA pizza but it’s also not round pieces like Bononcini either. The cheese is so thick it’s like big slices that have been melted over the entire pizza. We tried pizza in a number of places and it was the same everywhere.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VII
Part IX
Part X
Part XI
Part XII
Part XIII
Part XIV
Part XV
Part XVI
Part XVII

South America Holiday Travel Itinerary and Tips Part VII

March 11, 2009

December 17th
Originally our plan was to go on a day trip to Colonia in Uruguay, however I still hadn’t finished solving my work problem and we didn’t do much in the city the day prior so we decided to put that off for another day.

We decided to try again the walk that we messed up the day prior. This time we could understand why the concierge had said it was a very nice walk.

One of our observations is that it is amazing how one street to the next street can be night and day. The day prior we had missed walking on part of Arreyo opting instead to walk on Juncal. Juncal is not a particularly nice or interesting street, while Arreyo, literally the next street over has beautiful buildings and lots of interesting art galleries. It is truly a nice walk (albeit short).

The street Av. Alvear is upscale and lined with luxury brands. It’s clean and well maintained. If you are a luxury shopper, this street is a must visit for you.

Near the Plaza Alvear is a ceramic and textile art museum called the Palais de Glace. The entry is free and the museum is pretty small and can be visited in a short period of time. If you are interested in this kind of thing it’s worth a stop otherwise I wouldn’t suggest a specific trip to the museum. For us it was a break from the sweltering heat.

We also went to the nearby Belles Artes museum which features a number of pieces from European artists including Renoir, Van Gogh and Rodin as well as Argentinean artists.

Overall if you are looking to see a large collection of European artists work this is not likely the best museum for you. We however did discover a really cool exhibition while there. Suggest that you check out the special exhibitions when visiting not just the permanent collections.

Jacque Bedel Art

Jacque Bedel Art

We walked back from the area and stopped for early tapas at a restaurant under la Recova area near the Four Season’s Hotel. We love tapas so we ordered a few and a couple of small bottles of Chandon and enjoyed the break on the way back to the hotel.

Read Other Posts In This Series:
Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V
Part VI
Part VIII
Part IX
Part X
Part XI
Part XII
Part XIII
Part XIV
Part XV
Part XVI
Part XVII


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